Posts

Showing posts from April, 2026

Week 2 Notes, Homework, and Videos

Image
     NOTE 1:  ALL TRAINING SHOULD BE DONE WITH TRAINING COLLAR AND TRAINING LEASH ON. NOTE 2:   DO NOT LEAVE TRAINING COLLAR OR TRAINING SLIP LEAD ON WHEN YOU ARE NOT ACTIVELY TRAINING YOUR DOG. NOTE 3:  PLEASE PUT ON YOUR TRAINING COLLAR CORRECTLY.  ALSO BE SURE TO HOLD THE LEASH CORRECTLY. This is a link to a leash article on our business blog.  Leashes How to Hold Them and How to Fold Them . NOTE 4:  EVERYTHING THIS WEEK SHOULD BE DONE IN LOW AND EASY DISTRACTION (INSIDE IN A QUIET AREA). NOTE 5:   THE GOALS ARE PLACES TO WORK TO IN THE FUTURE.  IF YOU DON'T MAKE THE GOAL, DON'T WORRY AS LONG AS YOU PUT IN THE WORK TOWARDS THE GOAL.  PLEASE REMEMBER THAT YOU CAN CALL OR EMAIL ME WITH ANY TRAINING PROBLEMS THAT COME UP IN BETWEEN LESSONS. NOTE 6:  IF YOU DON'T GET THROUGH ALL THE EXERCISES IN ONE DAY, YOU CAN JUST BE SURE THAT THE EXERCISES YOU DID NOT GET TO ARE DONE THE NEXT DAY.   THE MOS...

Week 2 Let's Go Command

  Explanation and goal of command:  Let’s go simply means move towards you. The goal is to have your dog move towards you when you say the command. This can be used for different purposes such as the following: You want your dog to move towards you and away from something else. For instance, if your dog was annoying another dog, this is a good way to get them to instead move towards you.  If your dog goes to the end of the leash, this is also a good command to train your dog to leave the leash loose.  Equipment needed: Long Line or 6’ Leash, Training Collar, Food Reward (if that is what we are working with)  STEP 1:  You will be holding the end of the long leash for this one.  STEP 2:   In the opposite hand, you will want to be holding the food reward. The food should be preloaded in your hand before giving the command.  STEP 3:   Let your puppy or dog get distracted. If they go to the end of the ...

Week 2 Sit with Correction if Needed

  Equipment Needed:   6’ Leash, Training Collar (or a slip lead could replace the two).   NOTE 1 :  IF YOU USE THE SLIP LEAD, THE COLLAR CORRECTION IS NOT AS CLEAN OR PRECISE.  IF YOU HAVE AN AMENABLE DOG, THIS PROBABLY WON’T BE A PROBLEM.   NOTE 2:  YOU DON’T NEED TO PRACTICE EVERY TIME WHILE HEELING.  YOU CAN DO THESE WHILE JUST WALKING WITH YOUR DOG AS WELL.   Explanation and Goal of Exercise:  This exercise is the end goal for the molding and interim sit exercises you have been doing.  You w ant to be able to stand up straight now for both the command and the correction (the correction is loose, tight, loose but quickly with the chain training collar, and just a tug with the slip leash) The goal for this week will be to do three sets of four in a row without needing the correction (which means it is very important to use the well-timed correction when it is needed).   You will want to do this (with the heeling) for...

Week 2 Lured Heeling Step 1

  Equipment Needed: 6’ Leash, Training Collar, OR a Slip Lead  Explanation and Goal of Exercise:  The goal of heeling is to have your dog in an exact position for ease of movement in a busy city, or when you are bringing in the groceries, or just so you don't trip over your dog. Heeling also keeps your dog focused on you rather than jumping on an interesting human or dog OR becoming snarky with a passing stranger or strange dog.  Also teaches the owner the concept of slack leash = more control. So that the opposition reflex of a taunt reach does not kick in OR the formula for aggression that restraint + frustration = aggression. We are teaching the dog to decide correctly and be focused on their "job". A dog's job can be as simple as allowing for a stress-free walk in the city.    Due to the configuration of training collars and the need to pick a side, generally heeling is on the left-hand side of the handler, dog is ideally a foot away from the ...

Week 2 Stay Command (the beginning)

  Equipment Needed: 6' Leash, Training Collar (or a slip lead instead of the leash and collar )       Explanation and Goal of Exercise:  Great for keeping a dog stationary when doing chores around the house.   Stationing a dog in any human or canine social environment when needed.   To keep the dog from greeting too enthusiastically by learning to wait and greet when allowed.   There are many other uses for this exercise.    The dog is required to perform the position of the command, and stay there until the release word is given.   The handler/owner will be increasing the duration first, add in distractions, and finally add on distance from the dog to this exercise.     NOTE ON STAYS:   DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THIS EXERCISE.   IF YOU STOP AT ONE SECTION, BUT DO THE BEST WORK POSSIBLE THAT IS MOST IMPORTANT.   IF YOU CAME HERE MORE ADVANCED, BUT HAVE TROUBLE AT ONE LEVEL, THEN...